Prusa vs ultimaker

Overview Prices Specs. Comparison winner. RepRap Prusa Mendel V2.

Budget 3D printers might cost you more overall: How much YOU should spend!

General info Components Materials Print sizes Connectivity. Scroll down for more details. Supports Wi-Fi. Which are the most popular comparisons? General info 1. Uses fused deposition modeling FDM. Ultimaker 2. Printers based on fused deposition modeling FDM use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point and then extruded through a nozzle, layer by layer, to create the object. One of the main advantages of printers based on FDM is that they work with a wide range of materials.

The width represents the horizontal dimension of the product. We consider a smaller width better because it assures easy maneuverability. The height represents the vertical dimension of the product.

prusa vs ultimaker

We consider a smaller height better because it assures easy maneuverability. We consider a thinner chassis better because it makes the product more compact and portable. Thinness is a feature highlighted by many manufacturers of mobile devices, but it is essential for a wide range of products. Components 1.

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Has a heated build platform. A heated build platform helps keep the lowest levels of a print warm as the higher layers are printed. This allows the overall print to cool more evenly. The 1. The smaller the nozzle, the more detailed the final product can be.

However, when speed of printing is of greater importance than detail, a larger nozzle may be preferable.I know this is an awkward question to ask here, but which machine would be best for printing numerous small parts in Nylon? This will be my first printer though I have been using an I3 MK2 for a few weeks that a friend has loaned me. Will Prusa ever make available a twin nozzle hot end so that support material can be used.

I don't like the sound of the multi material single nozzle as it is too much to sort out for a novice like myself! An Ultimaker 2, with enough use that the owner will let it go for under a thousand. Or a brand new MK3? The Ultimaker is second hand at about half the normal price, hence the question.

I could not afford one at full price! I have currently borrowed a I3 Mk2 from a friend and like it, but have never tried the Mk3 or the Ultimaker so cant comment on them, which is why I am asking you guys because of your experience as some of you may have used the Ultimaker.

I know that being on this forum you may be Prusa biased, I will just have to rely on you giving an honest opinion on that one.

It would be great if Prusa did a duel hot end as then I would definately go Prusa! A duel hot end would be an alternative to the Ultimaker 3 which would realy be a positive for Prusa. I'd be willing to guess that the Ultimaker is a little tighter tolerance wise than the Prusa would be and would likely be a higher end build overall, kind of like a Lexus vs Honda type of a thing. Both are damned fine cars the Lexus is just a higher end build. If I can get a Lexus for the price of a Honda it's a no brainer but if I have to pay full price for a Lexus vs 2 Honda's for the same price Edit: you may also want to factor in the wait for a MK3 vs the immediate gratification of having the Ultimaker right away Also factor in the fact that the MK3 still has glaring issues we are working through that the Ultimaker may not have.

Right now the MK3 is definitely a hobbyist printer, hobby being getting the thing up to what everyone expected it to be. The MK3 is an infinitely nicer machine to actually print with. Not only do you get fast speeds and high quality on the MK3, you even get a direct drive extruder which is just infinitely more flexible than a bowden style printer.

Prusa has really done a great job shoring up the downsides of that particular style of printer. It's also got a great look, for those that care about such things.

But in the end, a MK3 is gonna be more fun to play and work with. It's a tested platform with a very rigid build. They use very high quality parts.

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But for a hobbyist, they'll both last you longer than you'll need. For what its worth i did alot of research before my purchase 6 months or so of reading up online all material i could find. Still waiting for my mk3 to ship. I decided on the Prusa i3 for one main reason, its ability to print higher temp materials out of the box. I want to eventually be printing nylon and PC my focus is on usable parts not art type printing and to do so wanted a hotend temp up to C, which Prusa provides.

I wanted the extra headroom to be safe printing pretty much any material. Something to keep in mind if printing hotter materials. You will definitely get more pro MK3 posts here :. But this should apply to most consumer 3D printer right now. Especially if you plan to print a lot of small parts at the same time, you will love it.Not all 3D printers can be used in a professional setting. The best 3D printers for professionals are the ones that are easy to use, well-built, reliable, and capable of producing high-quality prints.

prusa vs ultimaker

This guide introduces you to the best 3D printers for professionals that you can get today. The products listed here include a 3D printer with an independent dual extruder systeman open-framed 3D printer packed with features, and an SLA 3D printer. There are no cheap options here. An open-source 3D printer, the MK3 was designed with usability in mind, boasting a number of features that make 3D printing easier and more accessible for everyone.

It has a removable magnetic build plate, a filament sensor, a power panic function, an auto-loading filament system, and an automatic bed leveling system. Although it sports the same open-framed design and color scheme of the MK2S, the MK3 is a very different beast. It has a redesigned Y axis and is equipped with Bondtech extruders, making it a lot better at flexible filaments, with which the MK2S had issues. The MK3 has excellent print quality. Even in low settings, it can still produce good results.

The MK3 has an open filament system: it accepts third-party filaments with a diameter of 1. But keep in mind that some materials will require an enclosure for consistent temperatures.

Unlike most 3D printers, the MK3 is not readily available at online stores like Amazon. It ships directly from Prusa Research, which is based in the Czech Republic. Moreover, the MK3 ships out in batches, so it can take more than a month before you can get your hands on your unit.

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But the MK3 is definitely worth the wait. It has a generous build volume, comes with a comprehensive instruction manual, and is compatible with different slicers. Zortrax M The Zortrax M has a reputation for being an absolute workhorse.

When set to optimum settings, it can print for days without the need for constant readjustments after each print. Originally, the M was a semi-enclosed 3D printer with uncovered sides, similar to the Ultimaker 3.

The current model now comes with official side covers, which helps it maintain a consistent temperature during high-temperature prints. In addition, the side covers also serve as a two-way protection. First, it protects the M from dust. And second, it keeps curious hands from making contact with the hotend and the print bed while the M is in mid-print. It can also print with high-temperature materials, such as ABS. On a related note, the M used to have a closed material system, which means users were stuck with proprietary filaments.

prusa vs ultimaker

But Zortrax had a change of heart. Now, the M has an open material system, although Zortrax maintains that its 3D printers are still best paired with its own filaments.

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In addition to its reliability, the M is also known for its excellent print quality. With the right settings, it can produce smooth and detailed prints.

Though not as feature-rich as the MK3, the M is a solid 3D printer that brings a lot of value. It has a generous build volume as well. Zortrax also offers a larger model in the form of the Zortrax M Go for that one in case the M is too small for you. Even though the Ultimaker 3 is now out, it remains a popular choice among enthusiasts and professionals alike.But once in a while, a company knows how to transcend the limitations of the genre, and delivers an excellent quality that you can build yourself.

They both give you immense value for your money, they both have a fairly painless assembly process, and they both print 3D objects you can be proud of. Bottom Line Up Front: So if you want to see what the 3D printing fuss is all about, the Ender 3 is the perfect place to start. You can save some money by going with the Ender 3, but it's not worth it unless you are very technical.

Buy Now Learn More We earn a commission if you click this link and make a purchase at no additional cost to you. Their Ender series is designed to get you involved in every step of the 3D printing process, from seeing how your machine is put together to watching the finished project materialize.

Here are all the details you need to find out if Ender 3 is your best bet. Check out the latest prices on the Ender 3 here on Amazon. You may still be wary after hearing the Ender 3 is a kit and not a fully assembled printer.

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But with the Ender 3, the assembly process is virtually painless. This good start to your experience gives you a boost to enjoy the rest of your printing sooner and with more understanding of how things work. Desktop printing is always going to be a cramped market, so Ender 3 gives you plenty of room to do your thing without getting in the way of the rest of your life. It might take a little adjusting after your first few runs, but the Ender 3 gets what you want to do and helps that happen well.

Those are growing by the day, as are the creative additions Creality users post for others to find and freely use on the internet. The Creality 3 is not perfect, and the most obvious way it shows its flaws is through its printer base. The motion of the printing arm and extruder makes the base wobble unless you stick a corrective wedge under the uneven part.

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Happily, the fix is just as easy as that. But even if it is a snap to correct, you have to remember to do so to keep your prints from turning into disasters, and this also makes keeping the printer bed level difficult. Related to your quest to even up the printer base is the need to manually calibrate your heater bed on a consistent basis. The first layer of any 3D print steers the direction of the rest of the print, either into perfection or disaster.By photoholicMarch 14, in Buying or selling your Ultimaker.

I started my journey through the vally of filament last week with a Prusa i3 MK2 kit. I don't have time to change PEI foils because the nozzle got rammed into the bed during calibration, adjusting and re-tightening screws every 2 days and other ugly things etc I want to have 3D prints as easy and reliable as it gets. So the question is: Is Ultimaker more the product I should go with?

One thing that's worring me is printing time. If I load the same model into Cura and into Simplify3D and compare the printing times it seems to me the Prusa is much faster with the same quality settings. Another issue is printing with PVA With respect of the print quality of the final print, there isn't much difference.

Considering the kit is ,00 Euros vs. If you're on a tight budget and do not mind getting your hands dirty, go for the Prusa. Get 2 even. Well, lets put it this way: I spent hours fidgeting with the Prusa getting the frame straight in the first place.

That's what you expect when buying a kit. I didn't expect the following. In the 5 months I owned my Prusa, this is in short what I've run into:. There will be more failures, I am certain. The brass hobbed bolt is already showing signs of wear, the inner parts are quite chewed up. I should replace it it now, but I am still hoping that my Multi-Material upgrade will eventually get delivered before this fails completely.

That's it. I guess eventually i will have to replace the PTFE coupler. ATM it is still hanging in nicely. The frame design of the i3 doesn't feel terribly sturdy. I think it's wobbly even. And I am not sure why this doesn't affect print quality more than it does.

I added a door and hood for it, done. For the i3 i had to build a full box around it, taking up precious desk space.News, information, links, help and fun related to 3D printing, 3D printers, additive manufacturing, etc.

Detailed info here See something that breaks our rules? Hit the report button or message the mods. We welcome community contributions to this wiki! Related subreddits can be found here. Non-reddit communities are listed in our getting started guide. Discussion Can't decide between Ultimaker 3 or wait for Prusa i3 mk3 multi-material I'd really like to upgrade to a multi-material printer that can do PVA supports and the Ultimaker 3 seems like the best consumer option.

However the Prusa mk3 really looks like it has a lot of nice features smarter extruder, flexible magnetic bed, etc. Wondering if you all who have used these brands at least have any thoughts on the following criteria:. Speed doesn't matter too much. I know that the Prusa uses one extruder and so would waste a lot more material The UM3 is pretty silent, but I wouldn't sleep in the same room as a running 3D printer both for sound and for safety reasons.

I don't think you will hear it printing when it's in another room. A lot of people seem to miss out on the part where a Prusa will require lots of work to get it to print as good as a more expensive Ultimaker. Yes, you CAN achieve the same quality, if you're willing to put in the time and effort. But there's a difference. Ultimaker is NOT just ripping you off.

Ender 3 vs Prusa i3 MK3 [Sep 2020]: Which is Best?

Once you fine-tune the settings, you'll be getting the same quality prints on the Mk3, plus all of the nice things that you've already mentioned. So, if you compare with fully assembled it's more like 3 prusas one with the upgrade but point taken :.

Is two extruders really a big advantage - Or conversely is four materials on the Prusa much more useful than two. I haven't been super impressed with what people have done with four colors And in theory I guess UM3 could get a multi-material upgrade for one nozzle that would be the best of both? Two extruders on Ultimaker are actually worse, in my opinion, than the MMU on Prusa which uses a single extruder. It's harder to keep two in sync and if you want to install some special nozzle, you have to buy two.

Plus there's two of everything, so twice as likely that you'll have to replace something. With Mk3 MMU, you only have one hotend. I agree that 4 materials are a bit useless. I only see the point in having 2, so that you can use soluble supports. Mk2 has the option of only 2 materials upgrade, so I'm sure Mk3 will have the same.

The 8 Best 3D Printers for Professionals in 2020

Finally, I'd really recommend that you get the kit or at least one of them if you buy more. Sooner or later, you'll have to fix something an you'll be much more confident having assembled it before. First, they've completely eliminated the need to keep the two print heads aligned in the Z-axis. Only one print head is down while printing, the non-printing print head is retracted.

Since only one print head is down at a time, that allows the two print heads to receive independent Z-axis calibration.News, information, links, help and fun related to 3D printing, 3D printers, additive manufacturing, etc.

Detailed info here See something that breaks our rules? Hit the report button or message the mods. We welcome community contributions to this wiki! Related subreddits can be found here. Non-reddit communities are listed in our getting started guide. Discussion Why is an ultimaker so expensive compared to a prusa i3 mk2 when the print quality is the same? Talk me out of my purchase. The Ultimaker does have some features that the Prusa does not like the nozzle swap, the enclosed build volume, and the slower-moving build platform.

The screen and buttons on the Ultimaker are nicer than on the Prusa. The build quality in general is better on the Ultimaker. Something else to check on that I don't know much about is how well the software stack is integrated for both printers.

Someone just posted a thread this morning that they have been waiting for their Prusa since early March and finally cancelled for a refund today. I ordered mine at the end of February and got it two weeks ago, so that may be some really bad timing on his part. The maximum quality for the two printers may be approximately the same, but the Ultimaker can print faster than the Prusa at the same quality level. That's because the Ultimaker is built around a better movement mechanism design.

Whether speed matters is up to you.

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You're also paying for better reliability. The Prusa has really great reliability for the price. The Ultimaker further improves upon that reliability, but with a significant increase in price.

Whether the extra reliability is worth it is up to you. There's many more reasons why UltiMakers are more expensive that I could list, but there's a few of them. It comes down to quality and popularity, as well as features. I have both, although much more time on the Ulti.